Signs and Symptoms of Cushing’s Disease

Unlike typical dog ailments, Cushing’s disease is quite tricky, as a pet owner is most often unaware of the onset of this condition. The common signs that alert an owner that something is wrong with a dog do not take place, such as visible pain, diarrhea, vomiting, seizures, or bleeding. Usually, a pet owner simply writes off the common symptoms of Cushing’s disease as the normal course of getting older.

For example, the muscle weakness connected to Cushing’s disease causes a dog to exercise less and become sluggish. These are typical signs of an aging dog; therefore owners usually dismiss these symptoms. A visit to a veterinarian often does not come until the signs become too unbearable. For instance, a dog may act completely out of character, such as displaying an uncharacteristic lapse in house training. The typical pooch suffering the effects of Cushing’s disease showcases a saggy belly, which is caused by dwindling muscle strength. As the condition worsens, a dog may lose hair. Additionally, the skin starts to thin and becomes less resistant to infection.

When it comes to Cushing’s disease, there are certain dogs that fall under a high-risk category. Bull Terriers, Silky Terriers, Yorkshire Terriers, Dachshunds, Poodles (toy, miniature, and standard) and Boston Terriers are all considered a high-risk breed for the disease. When it comes to adrenal gland tumors, female dogs are more vulnerable. The disease is also common in dogs that are older than five years old.

Getting to the Bottom of Cushing’s Disease

Once a pet owner suspects Cushing’s disease, a veterinarian can diagnose the problem with a blood test. Later, they can pinpoint the cause of the condition (pituitary or adrenal gland issues). Nearly 85% of all Cushing’s disease cases are caused by tumors in the pituitary glands, which are treatable with drugs. There is no cure for this instance of the disease, while adrenal gland tumors are surgically removable.

Cushing’s Disease Treatment

The main drugs used to treat Cushing’s disease are called Lysodren, Ketoconazole, and Anipryl. Lysodren combats the outer layer of the adrenal gland to regulate the amount of corticosteroids that the body produces. Ketoconazole suppresses cortisol secretions within the adrenal glands, but can only treat about 75 to 80% of all cases. Anipryl rejuvenates the natural balance of chemicals in the brain to decrease Cushing’s disease symptoms and often delivers a high success rate.

Long Term Effects

If the disease is left untreated, the condition will worsen and eventually threaten the life of the dog with the development of additional disorders, including diabetes, kidney failure, congestive heart failure, and infections that attack the ears, eyes, bladder, or skin. Whenever it becomes apparent that your dog is suffering from Cushing’s disease, immediate medical attention is a must.

Joann Henry operates “Doggie Health Care” http://www.DoggieHealthCare.com a blog all about our beloved four legged family member’s health. She loves to give away free stuff! If you sign up to receive her newsletter, not only will you get some free tips to keep your dog healthier, but FOR A LIMITED TIME, she’ll give you a FREE ebook. For more information, please visit: http://www.DoggieHealthCare.com

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Every dog owner will want to ensure that their dog will enjoy a long and healthy life. But how long is the average life of your particular breed of dog and what can you do to increase the possibility that your dog will live longer than expected?

A myth has developed that one year of a dog’s life is equal to seven human years, so that, for example, a dog at age one is like a human child at age seven, and a 5-year old dog is the equivalent of a human adult of 35.

Actually, there is no established linear correlation between dog years and human years. Dogs mature much more quickly than humans. A dog at age one has generally achieved its full growth and is sexually active – this is obviously not true of a seven year old human child. So a dog at age one is similar to a teenager, who has some growing out to do but is more or less mature physically. Thereafter each year in a dog’s life may be seen as about equal to 4 to 6 human years.

Overall, the life expectancy of American dogs is around twelve years on average. But the actual expected life span of any particular dog is highly dependent on its breed. Generally speaking, the larger the breed of dog, the shorter its life will be. Veterinarians guess that this is because larger dogs’ bodies must work harder than those of their smaller compatriots.

The average life spans for some of the most common breeds of dogs are: 7-10 years: Great Dane, Newfoundland, Doberman Pinscher, Bulldog, Rottweiler; 9-11 years: St. Bernard, Bloodhound, Chow Chow, Boxer; 10-13 years: Airedale Terrier, Dalmatian, Golden Retriever, German Shepherd, Scottish Terrier, Afghan Hound, Dachshund, Irish Setter; 12-15 years: Beagle, Bichon Frise, Collie, Doberman, Pomeranian, Border Terrier, Cocker Spaniel, English Springer Spaniel, Greyhound, Labrador; 14-16 years: Boston Terrier, Irish Setter, Standard Poodle, Schnauzer, Shih Tzu, Yorkshire Terrier; 15-18 years: Dachshund, Miniature and Toy Poodle, Chihuahua.

The life expectancies set out above are for purebred dogs. Inbreeding and pure breeding can weaken the gene pool and reduce life expectancy, as a unique pool increases the likelihood of an undesirable trait influencing your dog’s genetic makeup dog.

So what can be done to increase the chance of your dog beating the statistical norms for its particular breed and living a longer than average life? Obviously seeing to it that your dog gets plenty of exercise is important. And, like humans, dogs seem to thrive better in an atmosphere that is relatively stress-free.

Most important is your dog’s diet. Dogs are carnivores and as such require a diet heavy in meat proteins, as high as 42% for puppies. Unfortunately the manufactured foods we buy for them at the supermarket or local pet store, while being high in protein, for the large part use cereal grain protein sources. You should try to feed them a supplement that contains high grade meat proteins. In addition, to help ward off the chances of cancer, it is advisable that the supplement contain immune enhancers. To ward off skin irritations and the seemingly inevitable scratching, an anti-inflammatory supplement containing a proper balance of Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids should be added to the daily diet. As dogs are very prone to joint diseases as they grow older, a Cox-2 inhibitor can prove very useful. And of course the supplement should be rich in vitamins and minerals.

Setting aside thirty minutes each day to play with your dog and to see that it gets a decent amount of daily exercise, while keeping a watchful eye on its diet, can go a long way to ensuring your dog leads a long and healthy life. And be sure to take your dog to the veterinarian annually for a thorough examination.

Colin Albert runs the TakeCareofYourPet web site. The web site discusses information about a new product called Hope for Pets, a natural supplement that is amongst the very best nutritional supplements on the market to aid in promoting long, healthy lives for our pets.

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Humans, dogs and cats have a lot of features in common. We share many of the same reactions to stress and pain, but there is one thing that cats, canines and most other animals have that we don’t, and that is the third eyelid.

What is the third eyelid?

Well, medically it is known as the “nictitating membrane.” In English it is an eyelid that provides extra protection for the eye. Rather like the wiper on our windshield. Our windshield wipers are usually connected to a container of water to clean our windshield, the third eyelid contains a gland that provides tears to keep the eye moist, among other things. It also provides antibodies and an enzyme that can inactivate bacteria.

What is Cherry eye?

Cherry eye is a condition that affects dogs usually during their first year.

There are some breeds, more than others that are effected by this condition: Cocker Spaniels, English Bulldogs, Mastiffs, Basset Hounds, Beagles, Boston Terriers, Lhasa Apso, Pekingese and Pugs are the most affected breeds. However, it can happen to any dog.

In my opinion it is ugly and scary, though it looks worse than it is. It is a red looking bump that seems to be growing out of the corner of the dog’s eye and you feel like it is going to “pop out” at any moment. Of course, it is not..

Most doctors say it is a congenital defect in the ligament that holds the gland of the third eyelid in place. It can be surgically repaired, however sometimes the surgery doesn’t hold the gland in place and it comes back up for all to see. Seeing it does not mean that it is not functioning, it just means it is not pretty to look at. Removing the gland if surgery can’t hold it in place is not recommended as this gland produces tears necessary for your dog’s eye. Without it your dog can suffer from “dry eyes” and that can be very painful.

The interesting thing is, if surgery does not hold the gland back in place and it pops up, time can work on your side as the “cherry eye” may decrease in size.

Even though this gland only supplies about 30 percent of the eye’s tear production, keeping it, no matter how bad it may look, is insurance for your dog’s eyes. It is tears that help keep the cornea of the eye healthy. The cornea has no blood vessels of its own, so the oxygen and nutrients that are supplied to it come through the tears.

Cherry eye is not known to be painful, but it can be irritating to the dog and what do dogs do when something irritates them. They scratch and it is the scratching that can cause problems that lead to eye injuries.

Today with the advent of many new techniques in veterinary surgery most of the time, positioning of the gland is successful. When a problem arises, there are other “tricks” a surgeon can perform that will remedy the problem.

On the positive side, this condition is not a “life or death” type of a situation. It can go unattended for a while, though cosmetically it bothers you more than the dog, it really needs to be attended to.

There is nothing you can do to prevent this from happening, but there are safe and effective ways to fix the problem.

Now what has this to do with cats?

Cats have a third eyelid, too. It sits for the most part on the inside corner of the eye. You might even see a bit of it peeking through.

Cats do not get “cherry eye.” However, if they are really ill or under a stressful situation the eyelid will start to cover the eye.

I have 10 year old feral cat, Mr. Boots, that did not have a chance to have a life as a treasured kitten. He came into our lives as a 10 week old kitten (more or less) and whatever conditioning had been in his past life had already made a mark on him forever.

Several years ago our “grandfather cat” died. Mr. Whiskers ruled the household and the other cats with a gentle but stern hand. His death then allowed our second in command cat, Isaac to be in control of the rest of the cats. Isaac became a tyrant and poor Boots shivered in his boots. The stress caused the third eyelid of his left eye to cover his eye and I became panic stricken.

The cat was scared to death of Isaac (and so was everyone else) so to make a long story short, Mr. Isaac packed his bags and went on to become a “nursery mouser” at a friend’s plant nursery.

Peace was restored and within a few weeks the third eyelid retracted back into its normal shape and life went on (well, sort of.)

The third eyelid in a cat functions the same as in a dog, keeping the “windshield clean. However, it only appears in time of serious stress or illness. If the third eyelid appears and stays around for a few days, please take your cat to the vet even, if the cat does not appear to be ill.

The Burmese cat is the breed most often affected by this condition.

As always, if your pet has any sign of not feeling well or is acting out of character, please call or see your vet. An ounce of prevention can save many veterinary dollars.

Motherhood not only brought me a boundless supply of children, it also filled my life with many animal critters that gave me an opportunity to learn much. Sharing some of this knowledge that I have learned through the years has become part of the “fun” I call my life. For other interesting stuff come and visit me at http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com

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Anytime temperatures turn extreme, pet owners should take extra precautions to ensure that their companions are comfortable and safe. Pets are living beings and should be treated as such. Keeping this in mind, here are some tips to keep your pet healthy and a happy during the hot months.

Dogs can suffer from sunburn, overheating and dehydration just as humans can. Be sure that your dog has plenty of water, shade and proper protection from the sun.

Never, ever leave your pet in a vehicle! The temperature inside a car heats up very rapidly and parking in the shade is no help. Your dog could suffer from heatstroke in minutes. In additions to this, when traveling, make sure to keep plenty of fresh, cool water handy.

Dogs love to play. In summer months, when allowing them to play outdoors, let them out in the cool morning hours or late in the evening. Do not let them out right after a meal or in humid weather.

Do not let your dog stand on hot asphalt or concrete. Their body heat can increase quickly and their paws can be burned.

If your dog is an outdoor dog, it is extremely important to provide plenty of fresh water and ample shade, possibly a good dog house. Let them into a cool room of the house during the hottest hours of the day.

When walking your pet, stay away from insecticide treated areas. Also keep them from underneath vehicles, which may be leaking toxic or lethal fluids!

Most pet owners cut or shave the hair off of long-haired breeds when it gets hot. If you do this, be sure to leave at least one inch of hair. Never shave it to the skin. Dogs are prone to sunburn too.

Use sunscreen or insect repellant labeled only for use on dogs. There are ingredients in these products made for humans, which can induce drooling, diarrhea, thirst and lethargy in pets.

When cooking out, if your dog is loose, keep matches, lighter fluids, citronella candles and insect coils out of reach. Scan the yard afterwards for any of these, or other, items that might have found their way into your dog’s reach.

Even though all of these precautions apply to all dogs, there are some who require extra attention. Older or overweight dogs should be watched more closely as they can be more prone to heat related problems. Also “snub-nosed” dogs such as Boston terriers, boxers, bulldogs and shih tzus. Pets with heart or lung diseases also need close supervision. Any pet falling in any of these categories should be kept in cool, air conditioned rooms as much as possible.

Keeping your dog healthy in hot weather is mostly common sense. If you would not allow your child to be put in a situation, don’t allow your dog either. Precautions you would take with a child, do so with pets as well. Listen to common sense and your pet will love you for it

Nikola lives and writes in Oklahoma. She enjoys reading, scrapbooking and interior decorating. She currently shares her home with a Boston terrier and a chihuahua. Nikola is an author on http://www.Writing.Com/ which is a site for Writers.

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The most common dog problems:

Dog Owner’s commonly ask me the same questions repeatedly. This article aims to help dog owners prevent and find information about the most common dog health problems. Understanding the basics of these problems will go a long ways to helping your canine friend live a long healthy life.

1. By far the most common question I get asked from dog owners is a desperate call about their dog’s vomiting. Vomiting can have many causes, but the most common cause is eating garbage, or wolfing down food. In most cases the easiest cure is to withhold food from your dog for 24 hours, but continue to give water. Then after 24 hours, start by giving small meals again. This rest period will allow the stomach to heal. If vomiting continues after this you should see your veterinarian.

2. The next most common question I get asked are reproduction questions. These questions range from breeding their dog, questions about whelping, and about raising puppies. While it is beyond this article to cover everything, here are some basics to keep in mind. Dogs come into heat every 6-7 months which is the time to breed them. The gestation length ranges from 59-63 days. Breeds that can have trouble with whelping are the pug, bulldog, Chihuahuas, Boston terriers, and the Pekingese. Whelping, the act of giving birth, can take from 2 to 24 hours. With several hours in-between the time puppies are passed.

3. Third, are questions about skin problems. These questions range from masses and bumps, to scratches and rashes. Whenever you find a mass on your dog it is important that you show it to your veterinarian. Most masses are benign lipomas, which are fatty tumors. Another common tumor of female dogs are tumors of the mammary gland. You can greatly decrease the risk of your female dog getting a mammary gland tumor by spaying your dog. One of the most common skin tumors owners are likely to see are Mast cell tumors. Mast cell tumors can appear anywhere on the body, and can range from benign to very aggressive.

4. Fourth are questions about the musculoskeletal system. Two possible causes of limping in dogs are arthritis and torn anterior cruciate ligaments. Arthritis is common in older dogs. To treat arthritis try some joint supplements like chondroitin. For dogs with torn anterior cruciate ligaments, surgery is needed. The anterior cruciate ligament is a ligament in the knees of dogs. Signs of this injury is when the dog is running and all of a sudden the dog whimpers in pain and starts to limp on its rear leg.

5. The fifth most common question is about allergies. Many dogs suffer from allergies. The most common clinical signs are the dog chewing its paws, reddened skin, and scratching. For a definitive diagnosis allergy testing can be done by your veterinarian. Allergies are often treated by antihistamines and in severe cases steroids.

With a little knowledge pet owners can be more proactive in the health care of their pets. With greater knowledge you can help your veterinarian come up with the best treatment plans for your pet, and are able to give a more complete history on your pet which can lead to a quicker and more accurate diagnosis.

For the complete TOP TEN LIST of questions visit my website at http://www.free-online-veterinarian-advice.com/doghealth.html

Chris Suckow, DVM, lives and works in Los Angeles, CA

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Do you dread clipping your dogs nails? Don’t worry you are not alone.. Even though it’s not much fun most dog owners will have to make nail clipping part of their regular grooming.

To clip your dogs nails you will need some basic equipment that you can pick up at any good pet supply store. Don’t try to make do with human clipers. Special dog nail clippers have a different shape and are specially designed to make the clipping as fast and painless as possible. There are other items you can buy to make it easier to trim your dog’s nails too – various products that encourage the blood clotting process are very useful in case of messy clipping accidents.

There are many variations on the best way to clip your dogs nails. In general you will want to start with prolonged desensitization of your dogs feet. This will allow your dog to get used to having his paws handled regularly and will make it easier to have a calm clipping session.

When clipping your dogs nails for the first time its important to ask someone who knows how to do it to show you. You can get many instructions and even some excellent illustrated instructions on how to clip your dogs nails but watching someone else clip your dogs nails will gie you a chance to ask any questions you might have. If your dog has dark nails (as many do) you will want to watch to get an idea of where your dogs “quick” is located. Most veternarians will clip your dogs nails for you and this is obviously the best way to learn.

Starting young increases the chances of having a dog who doesn’t mind having his nails trimmed. Puppies generally won’t need to have their nails clipped but even if you only bring the clippers up to his paws and “play clip then” he will learn that it’s just a normal part of life.

Don’t clip your dogs nails until you are completely sure what you are doing. Not only will your dog pick up on your anxiousness but he will most probably make things difficult for you.

Many people find that one of the best ways to ensure a calm and easy nail clipping session is by walking the dog before you start with the clipping. Tire your dog out well and he might not be able to make as much of a fuss as he’d like.

Some people resort to using tranquilizers to make nail clipping easier for their dogs nd them. This really shouldn’t be necessary with some foresight. Even the simple act of massaging your dogs paws for a few minutes every day to desensitize your dog to being touched there.

Of course the most important thing you can do to make nail clipping easier is to use treats liberally.

Steve Allison is a third generation of professional dog breeders along with his brother Gary. It all started with his grandparents in 1970 with the Boston Terriers and has expanded to Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, Pugs, Shih Tzu’s and Pomeranians. He is also actively involved with dog rescue and has a website that showcases the puppies they occasionally has for sale at All My Puppies Online Steve is also the co-author of two consumer guides, Carpet Secrets and Moving Secrets Guide.

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The Boston Terrier’s Mouth

Boston Terriers share many common dental characteristics with their human companions, including gum disease, gingivitis, periodontal disease, and tooth fractures.

There are several noted differences.

Boston Terriers usually do not get cavities An adult Boston Terrier has 44 teeth (humans have only 32) A Boston Terriers teeth are designed for their carnivorous (meat-eating) diet and humans teeth are designed for their omnivorous (eating meat and vegetables) diets.

Like humans, a Boston Terrier’s teeth can loosen in their sockets, opening the opportunity for infection. This infection can travel through the bloodstream and cause kidney and heart disease. Antibiotics can suppress the infection, but only tartar removal can prevent recurrence.

The second biggest problem for the Boston Terrier’s teeth is tooth fracture. A Boston Terrier can break their teeth surprisingly easy by crunching down on rocks, bones, and other tough substances.

Supplies Needed

A canine toothbrush or child’s soft toothbrush.

A finger brush.

Toothpaste for dogs comes in several flavors.

a. Nutri-Vet Canine Toothpaste, Chicken Flavor

b. Canine Enzymatic Toothpaste

c. KissAble Toothpaste

d. CET Pet Toothpaste

e. Petrodex Enzymatic Toothpaste

f. Triple Pet All Natural Toothpaste

g. Virbac Toothpaste Dog – Natural

A good canine diet.

Adequate clean water.

A large dose of love, patience, sweet talking, and praise.

Your Boston Terrier’s Dental Care Begins With Proper Diet

Dental distress can be caused by the wrong kind of foods. The mild abrasiveness of dry food can help remove the bacterial plaque that can harden into tartar. Dry food also provides adequate chewing exercise and stimulation.

Feeding your pet sweets and table scraps may increase plaque and tartar formation. So avoid feeding your pet these items.

If your Boston Terrier is prone to dental problems your veterinarian may recommend a special dry food designed to reduce plaque and tartar.

Tartar buildup can be reduced by modifications in diet, but only regular brushing can reach the critical areas at and below the gum line.

Brushing Your Boston Terrier’s Teeth

Brushing your Boston Terrier’s teeth may be easier than brushing your own. Your Boston’s teeth are narrow and more widely spaced, so the need for flossing is eliminated.

There are several noted differences in brushing your Boston’s teeth as opposed to brushing your own teeth. Because your Boston cannot rinse or spit out toothpaste, the toothpaste must be specially designed for dogs. Human toothpastes can irritate your Boston’s stomach and fluoride can cause mottling of the tooth enamel.

Getting Started

For the first few dental care sessions with your dog, do not even use a toothbrush.

The first step is selecting a good time. This should be a time in which the dog is relaxed, drowsy is good.

Gently stroke the outside of your Boston’s cheeks with the tip of your finger.

When your Boston becomes comfortable with that, place a small dab of toothpaste on your fingertip. Let your dog sniff it and then lick it off. Repeat this process several times.

Do not rush your Boston. Be patient.

The last thing you will want is for your dental care time to be traumatic. You should not have to force your Boston. It may take days or weeks before your Boston becomes comfortable. You may need to back up and try days or weeks of gently stroking on the outside of their cheeks.

Gently rub several teeth with your fingers and a small dab of toothpaste.

Gradually increase the number of teeth brushed.

Remember, it is extremely important to brush the back teeth where plaque and tartar have an increased tendency to accumulate. Go slowly. Stop brushing after just a few minutes and long before you Boston begins to fuss.

If your Boston begins to dislike the procedure, back up to the step of gently stroking the outside of your Boston’s cheeks with the tip of your finger. Repeat this step for days or weeks until your Boston again becomes comfortable with you manipulating their mouth area.

Always remember to be patient. You do not want this time to be wrought with anxiety for both you and your Boston.

Next, introduce a small dab of toothpaste on a toothbrush to your Boston’s mouth. When your dog has tasted the toothpaste, reapply a small dab to the toothbrush and brush gently in a circular motion to their front teeth. Praise your Boston often, stroke their neck gently, speak softly. When your Boston is relaxed, pull their lips and cheek back gently to gain access to the side and back teeth. Brush softly.

Boston Terriers do not accumulate much tartar on the inside of their teeth, so it is important to worry only about the outside surfaces. The back teeth are very important.

Try to make your Boston’s dental care time pleasurable.

Stop each session and lavishly praise your dog.

Your Boston Terrier may actually start to look forward to their dental care time.

Consult your Boston’s Veterinarian for brushing frequency. Most will recommend at least twice a week. Boston’s with stubborn dental problems may need more frequent dental care.

While brushing your Boston’s teeth twice a week may seem daunting, it will become easier with practice and patience. By caring for your Boston’s dental hygiene, you will assure good dental health, and may prevent more serious dental and medical problems as they age.

Professional Dental Cleanings

Consult with your veterinarian to determine frequency of needed professional dental care. Most will recommend an interval of one to three years.

Professional dental care is performed under general anesthesia. It will consist of scaling (to remove tartar above and below the gum line); polishing (to smooth the surface of your Boston’s teeth); and flushing (to dislodge both tartar and bacteria).

A professional dental cleaning may consist of:

a. Anesthetizing your Boston Terrier.

b. Taking x-rays to assess the health of their teeth and surround bone areas.

c. Flushing their mouth with antibacterial solution to kill bacteria

d. Using an ultrasonic scaler to clean the teeth.

e. Polishing the teeth to remove scratches

f. Examining each tooth and the surrounding gums for signs of disease

g. Reflushing the mouth again with the antibacterial solution.

h. Applying a dental agent to retard plaque buildup.

i. Documenting any abnormalities on your Boston’s chart.

j. Recommending follow-up and determining a home care regimen for your Boston Terrier.

The typical cost of a professional veterinarian’s dental care for your Boston Terrier is between $70 and $350. Costs may increase if your veterinarian may determines that your dog may need pre-anesthesia blood work. A need for a more extensive cleaning may also increase the costs.

February

Remember that February is National Canine Dental Month.

If you have not had, your Boston Terriers’ teeth examined by your veterinarian, then now is an excellent time. They may recommend a home care regimen that will prevent further problems.

Glossary

Plaque – a film of saliva, mucus, bacteria, and food residues that builds up on the surface of teeth and can cause gum disease.

Tartar - a hard deposit of mostly organic material that forms on teeth at the gum line and contributes to dental decay if not regularly removed.

Thank you for reading my article.

Can you please help me? I have written over 50 articles for various online publications. Can you help me make money with this talent?

I have a website: http://www.bostonterrierville.com or you can email me: LuYoungRN@yahoo.com

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A big no-no is keeping your Boston Terrier waiting in a parked car, or confined in a crate placed in direct sunlight. This can be a deadly mistake, as cars etc. heat up very quickly in the summer sun, which will ultimately lead to a heat stroke. Due to their short snouts the Boston Terrier’s respiratory system’s built-in air conditioning is not as effective as it could be. Make sure that your Boston does not overheat and that they have access to fresh water and shade at all times.

Also, don’t let your Boston Terrier put on too much weight. Obesity will greatly reduce your Boston Terrier’s quality of life and is likely to reduce your dog’s life span.

If you are afraid of overfeeding your Boston Terrier with rewards, take those from his/her daily rations. Your Boston Terrier will not notice the difference, and you are taking the first step towards getting your Boston Terrier into shape. By keeping your dog from becoming overweight, you are preventing severe health problems down the line.